Flying south to swim

In search of warmer waters, Ben Lane booked a trip to Lanzarote and discovered a treasure trove of stunning coastlines and beautifully clean seas

November in the UK is when open water swimmers earn their reputation for toughness. Air temperatures drop, water cools fast, and even the hardiest begin talking about numb fingers and neoprene caps. I enjoy coldwater swimming, but this year I found myself craving something different: the simple pleasure of warm saltwater and sunshine. I wanted somewhere close, affordable, and reliable weather-wise; Lanzarote quickly emerged as the obvious choice. Before visiting, I knew little about the island beyond its reputation for budget holidays.

What I found instead was a landscape shaped by volcanoes and Atlantic weather, paired with a climate that truly earns its nickname, the Island of Eternal Spring. Even in late autumn, both air and sea temperatures make swimming not just possible but enjoyable.

I based myself at Lanzarote Retreats, Finca De Arrieta, in the delightful town of Arrieta on the quieter northern coast. What began as a single converted water tank has grown into a low-impact eco-retreat powered by wind and solar energy. Owner Josh Braddock emphasises that sustainability here isn’t a marketing strategy but a longestablished way of operating. Saltwater pools, strict water management, and strong links with local suppliers all reflect the family’s environmental approach. Plans for nature-integrated training areas suggest the retreat will increasingly attract swimmers and triathletes seeking focused time in the water.

Joshua’s vision is clear: grow responsibly, protect the island, and support the local community for years to come. “We are planning a new wellness approach with outdoor gathering spaces and natureintegrated training areas, appealing to swimmers and triathletes looking for longterm training stays.”

For open water coaching and local knowledge, I joined Paul Cardwell Hounam of Swim Lanzarote. Paul works with swimmers of all levels, from pool athletes transitioning to the sea to experienced triathletes refining their skills. His coaching centres on awareness and adaptability. “Speed alone won’t help you if you can’t read conditions,” he said. “Open water is about understanding what’s around you and using it to your advantage.” Together we explored several northern bays, focusing on sighting, rhythm, and breathing control. The water was clear, cool, and consistently inviting. From calm early mornings to windruffled afternoons, the variety of conditions proved ideal for developing technique.

Paul’s own connection to the water runs deep. “From an early age, I was obsessed with the ocean, rivers, lochs. Anything,” he told me. He recalled his grandfather’s story: “As soon as my feet hit the sand on Sunday beach trips, I’d sprint into the water. He’d have to wade in, shoes and all, to haul me out.” That sense of awe still shapes his work today.

One of Lanzarote’s strengths is the diversity of its swimming environments. Volcanic geology creates sheltered coves, long sandy beaches, and rugged stretches exposed to the full force of the Atlantic. This means that on most days, somewhere on the island offers suitable conditions, whether you’re building confidence or looking for a challenge.

And on the days when the weather decides otherwise (an intense storm did wipe out any chance of sea swimming on one day), the Olympic-size pool at Barcelo offers an excellent fallback. Overlooking the coast, it cost just a few euros for an hour and was a great place to practise the techniques we’d been working on in the sea. As it’s part of the Barcelo Lanzarote Active Resort, you can easily turn a swim session into a relaxed day.

You should leave some time aside and hire a bike (the team where I was staying kindly arranged this for us). From the town of Arrieta, there are stunning roads and gravel tracks on your doorstep. We hired bikes – e-bikes, so cheating a little bit – and spent a day travelling the area, seeking out new spots in which to swim and taking a rest from carving through the waves. Lanzarote is a well-known haven for cyclists; the roads and tracks are well maintained and the roads quiet, so this is highly recommended for a whole new perspective on life and a good way to research the next swim.

Lanzarote stands out as a reliable, yearround destination for open-water swimmers and, in fact, all sporty types. The image of Lanzarote as a ‘booze cruise’ destination is only a very small part of the story. Its reliably warm climate (it’s located just 80 miles off the north coast of Africa), consistently calm and clear Atlantic waters, and mix of sheltered bays and rugged volcanic coastlines create ideal conditions for both training and leisure. Excellent visibility enhances the experience, while the island’s strong triathlon culture and purpose-built facilities support swimmers of all levels. Whether focusing on endurance, technique, or simply enjoying scenic coastal routes, Lanzarote offers a great chance to escape the cold and swim with renewed confidence!

Top Spots for open-water swimming in Lanzarote

Arrieta Beach (Lanzarote Retreats is a 5-minute walk away)

A quiet local beach with typically calm morning conditions. Clear water and easy access make it ideal for technique sessions or relaxed, steady-distance swims. Light chop tends to develop when the wind swings southeast.

Playa Flamingo & Playa Blanca

Playa Flamingo is one of the most sheltered bays on the island thanks to its breakwaters. Expect reliable conditions and good visibility. Nearby Playa Blanca offers a chain of sandy beaches perfect for simple point-topoint swims.

Playa Grande, Puerto del Carmen

A popular training location for triathletes. Its long, straight shoreline and lifeguard presence make it practical and predictable. Mornings are usually calmest, with the wind picking up through the afternoon.

El Golfo & Green Lagoon Coastline

A dramatic stretch suited only to confident swimmers and best tackled with a guide. Swell can make it unsuitable, but on the right day visibility is excellent and the scenery unforgettable.

Charco del Palo Natural Pools

Volcanic tide pools that refill with each tide. Sheltered from swell, they’re perfect for recovery swims, acclimatisation or simply enjoying clear, still water.

Playa La Garita, Orzola

A broad northern beach with areas of shallow, calm water that suit beginners or swimmers returning after a break. Views across to La Graciosa add to the experience.