Northumbrian rivers and Roman remnants

Susanne Masters seeks rivers, waterfalls and Roman remnants on her wild swimming holiday in Northumberland

Hadrian marked Northumberland with a wall for the same reason that we went there; it lies between Scotland and England. For Hadrian a boundary to defend. For us, five adults and baby on swimming weekend, a meeting place between the Scottish Highlands and England’s south coast.

A gateway through Ashgill Force

A cluster of cars was the most obvious indicator that something special is below the bridge on the B6277 across Ashgill Beck.

Following a footpath across a field we travelled from scrappy grass to a fragment of sumptuous forest. Chocolate root (Geum rivale) hid its flavour underground, its peachy coloured flowers an exotic splash of colour. Vanilla-like, the fragrance of freshly blooming valerian (Valeriana officinalis) filled the air, soft pink abundance matched by cream clouds of meadowsweet (Filipendula ulmaria). Spikes of common spotted orchids (Dactylorhiza maculata subspecies fuchsii) edged the beck, and trees grew up the steep valley sides. A vibrant oasis compared to the sparse hillside above. This stretch of Ashgill Beck is a reminder that before sheep, land here was forested.

We followed the path upstream until it ended in a rock platform behind Ashgill Force. The bridge overhead is Grade II listed for its arch made with tapered stones and parapets, but it was the view down the leafy valley seen through a curtain of water that held our gaze. Cocooned behind the movement and sound of falling water we were both mesmerised and invigorated. It is the kind of experience spas and wellness destinations try to create. For us it was the gateway to a watery weekend.

The small pool below Ashgill Force looked like an ankle twisting scramble over rocks to get into the water, and there was little room for leaving dry towels and clothes nearby. Instead, we walked downstream to a patch of short grass near the fingerpost marking the crossroads of paths to and from Ashgill Force, and Tynehead to Garrigill. Here we switched into swimsuits and got in the beck just upstream at a small waterfall where rock shelves made a short staircase that was easy to get down. With a pool deep enough to lose touch with the bottom and waterfall bubbles we had a scenic place to wallow. Over hanging trees dappled the light around us. Following the beck downstream, it briefly shallowed to a wade and then flowed deep enough to swim between rock walls; a miniature leafy canyon.

River South Tyne

Gathering water from streams, including Ashgill Beck, River South Tyne flows north and east to form the River Tyne near Hexham. At Featherstone, within its upper reaches, its riffles and pools appeal to fishers and swimmers alike. From Featherstone Footbridge we followed a footpath along the eastern side of the river until we were opposite Featherstone Castle. Near a post holding a life-saving ring, a sandy river beach offers foot friendly entry into the dark water.

From the tame meadow-side we swam across to the opposite bank where a patch of forest edged slabs of rocks. A robin flitted past clutching a bountiful collection of bugs in its beak. I could see why there were fishermen further downstream at the bridge; plentiful insects encouraging fish to feed. As the water runs tannin-dark and the riverbed is erratically rocky here, it’s a place for casual swimming. At high speed you are likely to collide with rocks. There was enough current to swim upstream and drift back effortlessly.

River North Tyne

Across from Chollerford on the southern side of the River North Tyne, on the B6318, we found the sweet spot of parking in a layby close to waterside footpath. Just before the bridge a footpath descends down to the river. As we brushed past fern-like leaves edging it the scent of anise was released; fragrant sweet cicely (Myrrhis odorata). Ever hopeful, I collected a few ripe seeds for another attempt at persuading it to grow in my southern garden.

Continuing further on the path between river and a field of grain we picked an exit and entry point where there was a clear gap between shrubs and trees, about 350m east of the bridge. Here the River North Tyne is over 50m wide, Olympic swimming pool length. It is also deep without knee-bashing rocks. An accommodating place for focusing on speed or technique. But the scenery of trees mirrored in dark water was an invitation to head-up breaststroke.

We swam across the river and back. Some of us swam downstream and got out nearer the bridge to Chollerford. In hindsight, if we had known about the marks on Chesters Roman Bridge we would have gone to find it. Roman stone masons carved a phallic symbol into it. At that time it was a symbol of blessing and protection on the land, not graffiti with a crude sense of humour.

Past times

Driving west on the B6318 we saw the Sycamore Gap. Since the individual tree was felled in 2023, the dip in Hadrian’s Wall looks empty. Planted deliberately as a feature in the landscape in the 1800s, the sycamore stood out against low lying grass that coats the hills. Perhaps it is easier to mourn the loss of a single tree than whole forests that are long gone. We went to see the Wall at Birdoswald. Impressive thinking about its construction. As a place to visit, perhaps a nudge to thinking about boundaries, self and engaging with where you are.

Crisscrossing between Northumberland and Cumbria for a clutch of dark water swims in long river pools and bubbling waterfalls we found a niche in Northumbria, the ancient Anglo-Saxon kingdom. A cooler damper version of Umbria’s green hills and Roman history, as well as a portmanteau for Northumberland and Cumbria. Northumbria felt a little unknown compared to the reputations of the Lake District and Northumberland National Park for swimmers. Certainly, Northumbria merits being better known as a place with beautiful swims. For me it was dreamy. In all honesty a place that catches attention on mostly drizzly summer days is something special.

Plan your swimming holiday in Northumberland

Waterfall and river safety

A river swim and walk behind a waterfall can be safe or perilous depending on conditions at the time you are there. If in doubt enjoy the view and come back another day to get closer or get in. In spring and summer Haltwhistle Leisure Centre has heated outdoor pools that may offer some consolation if weather precludes river swimming.

Place to stay

Holmhead Cottage and Bunk Barn

Combining a cottage and bunk barn was great flexibility for our group of five adults plus one baby. The cottage sleeps four and was £291 for three nights, the bunk barn starts at £90 for exclusive use by one person for three nights. Reached by a narrow bridge across Tipalt Burn and in the lee of Thirlwall Castle ruins, it combines remote views across a field and a short walk to the nearest pub in Greenhead village. Our choice of where to stay in Northumberland was skewed towards affordability. Holmhead Cottage and Bunk Barn exceeded our expectations, and led us to superb local swimming spots.
Hadrians Wall, Greenhead; bandb-hadrianswall.co.uk

Best scones on the planet

Crisp on the outside, fluffy inside, not over baking-powdered, both sweet and savoury scones at the Nook Farm Shop & Café were perfect. Epiacum Roman Fort, Kirkhaugh, Alston; thenookfarmshop.com