Weekend swim retreat: Ebba, Herefordshire

Digital editor Abi Whyte finds an idyllic swim retreat in the Welsh Borders, just a short drive from the famous book town of Hay on Wye

There’s an instant feeling of seclusion when you arrive at Ebba, a tiny wooden cabin hidden away in the Welsh Border hills. All you can hear is the distant whistle of a red kite, the bleating of sheep and the burble of frogs in the water.

The cabin, with its floor-to-ceiling windows and Japanese timber cladding, is a striking sight reflected in the clear waters of the spring-fed lake. Across the water is a “floating” sauna, another bold vision of blackened timber and glass. 

Designed to sleep two, the cabin – though small – has been cleverly designed with space-saving storage, sleek furnishing and natural textures that are calming on the eye.  

Wherever you are in the cabin, you can’t help be arrested by the views from the glazed walls out onto the lake, waterfall and flowing stream. This is a place to feel completely embraced by the wild.

And while there’s plenty to keep you here in this little pocket of wildness, there’s more to explore in the surrounding Welsh uplands and Wye Valley, including the Offa’s Dyke National Trail and – surely number one on any book-lovers’ bucket list – Hay on Wye. 

The accommodation

Inside Ebba you’ll find a superking-size bed topped with towels and robes for your stay. There’s a pre-stacked woodburner ready to light, and a small selection of games and books to unwind with by the fire. 

The cabin has two rain showers – one in the bathroom and one outside, next to the hand-carved stone bath that comfortably fits two people.

The swimming

Aaah that lake. That crystal, spring-fed lake. Clean, clear and absolutely brimming with frogs (in spring!). You can access the lake via a ladder on the jetty, conveniently next to the sauna. 

The sauna heats up very quickly (takes just half an hour) and the view from the floor-to-ceiling window is spectacular, particularly if you’re having a twilight swim and sauna sessiom.  

There’s also a rowing boat moored to the jetty, with lifejackets provided, should you be inclined for a romantic paddle. 

If you can bear to tear yourself away from the lake, there is a gorgeous swim spot a short walk west along the river from Hay on Wye, named The Warren. It’s a designated bathing area of the Wye, with shallow stretches for paddling and deeper pools upstream for a proper swim. 

Eating

The cabin is fitted with a double gas hob and has all the utensils you need for cooking. There’s no oven, so don’t make the same mistake I made bringing a quiche to bake!

There’s also a BBQ and fire pit on the deck should you fancy an alfresco feast. 

The nearest pub is the Roast Ox Inn in Painscastle – very popular for its Sunday roast. And you’re spoilt for choice for places to eat in Hay-on-Wye with its array of independent cafes, restaurants, farm shops and bakeries. A particular favourite of mine is Chapters, which has a Michelin Green Star for its sustainable and ethical standards.

Best of the rest

This is prime walking country here in the Welsh Borders, with the Offa’s Dyke Path snaking close by. You can pick up this historic path from the neighboring village of Newchurch and walk all the way to Hay on Wye, or Kington in the opposite direction if you wish.

The cabin has laminated maps and guides to other walking routes starting from the cabin, including Bryngwyn Hill where you’ll be rewarded with views of Hay Bluff, Pen-y-fan and the Begwyns.

For something a bit different, Bryngwyn Riding Centre offers guided hacks out on the upland moors, and is suitable for all levels of horse-riding experience. 

And of course, bibliophiles simply cannot miss a visit to Hay on Wye, the word’s first book town and host to the famous literary festival every summer. Aside from the numerous book shops to mooch in, you’ll find the recently the restored Hay Castle, which is hosting a stunning exhibition celebrating Welsh artists until September. 

Our favourite thing

Reclining in the outdoor stone bath after sunset, my friend opposite, face packs on, watching the stars come out. 

With thanks to The Nant. For more information and to book your stay visit the-nant.co.uk/ebba