Weekend swim retreat: Rothay Manor, Ambleside

Ella Foote heads to the Lake District for a weekend swim break just a short distance from Windermere and central for hiking routes around Helvellyn and Scafell Pike

The Lake District is a UK destination that can be enjoyed at any time and in any weather, which is a good job as it is home to the wettest place in England. Each season offers new and beautiful landscapes to explore and enjoy as the environment changes through the year, but one of my favourite times to visit is late autumn. It might be damp, often cold, sometimes frosty but if you are lucky, you get glorious blue sky days with glass-flat lakes to dip into and not as many tourists in the area.

Ambleside is a super location, nestled between iconic lakes and central for hiking routes around Helvellyn and Scafell Pike. The small town offers independent shops, top-rated restaurants and circular walking trails that offer dipping and swimming locations too. Rothay Manor Hotel is a five-minute walk from the town centre and a 10-minute walk from the beach at Waterhead, Windermere.

The accommodation

Rothay Manor was built in 1823 as a private home for a wealthy Liverpool merchant and then became a hotel in 1936. It has a long and interesting history and has been updated and renovated many times; the main building still has the French-inspired cast iron balcony, which was an idea of the original owner’s wife. In 2016 it was bought by Jamie and Jenna Shail, who continue to develop and operate the boutique hotel. In 2020, the main house was renovated and soon after the Pavilion Suites were developed in a separate building adjacent to the main house.

The luxury suites have private balconies or private gardens, one of which has a hot tub! The hotel is dog friendly with dog-friendly rooms and a special dog washroom, including a shower and welly-boot library. There are 23 individually designed rooms across the two buildings; I stayed in a Pavilion Suite. This generous room had an enormous bed as well as lounge space and a place I could write. The bathroom was about the same size as my bedroom at home and had a beautiful free-standing bath, which I made full use of. Returning to the suite each day after being weather beaten was like a big hug.

The swimming

The Lake District is one of the few places where roaming and swimming feels free and easy. A short walk from the hotel, either along the road or beside the River Rothay, you will find a series of small shingle beaches that sit at the Waterhead end of Windermere. Here it is easy to get in, with benches to leave kit and a gradual entry into the lake. In warmer weather you could swim around the small bays, out of the busy boat routes, or up the river until it becomes too shallow. You could walk to Loughrigg Tarn or get the bus and enjoy swimming in the small circular tarn, a favourite spot for William Wordsworth.

If you wanted some guidance or expertise, Rothay Manor work with local swimming guides, Swim the Lakes, who also have a shop in Ambleside town. They can provide coaching, bespoke swim days, group swims and wetsuit fitting or hire.

There are many walking routes from the hotel, some that have been put together by the owners themselves and offer plenty of opportunity for river dips and lake swims.

I swam in Windermere and was grateful for the loan of welly boots and an umbrella after leaving my boots in a friend’s car. Morning swims and then the brilliant breakfast back at Rothay Manor made for a wonderful combination.

The food

The main restaurant at Rothay Manor, Rowan, is award winning. The food showcases the best of local produce, seasonally curated. Meat comes from Lake District farmers and seafood from nearby Ulverston. Cumbria is home to the most Michelin-starred restaurants outside of London, so often places to eat in the area are either fine dining or rustic spots that welcome muddy boots.

Head Chef Cameron Smith aims to create a balance of the two, offering sensational food but in a relaxed environment. You can enjoy a meal here if you are staying or if you happen to be walking nearby. The food is well thought out, but not fussy. Flavours and textures are surprising, without style over substance.

I enjoyed fresh crab from Ulverston and rich, beautifully cooked venison. There is an all-day menu as well as à la carte and afternoon tea. Breakfast is included and offers lots of choice, including fried bread and rich-tasting black pudding. Nearby there are other lovely food spots, including the cute Copper Pot in Ambleside town which is great for coffee and lunch, or Chesters By The River which has amazing cakes and a lovely lifestyle shop.

Best of the rest

Rothay provides a wonderful base to explore the Lakes over a long weekend or longer break. I enjoyed staying here while also visiting the Kendal Mountain Festival, a 30-minute drive away. If you are planning swimming the length of Windermere, this is a great place to finish and enjoy a well-earned rest!

Our fave thing

Morning swims in Windermere and local loop walks.

With thanks to the team at Rothay Manor. For more information and to book visit rothaymanor.co.uk