Weekending: Pier House, Charlestown

Weekend escapes with a swimming opportunity. This month Ella Foote heads to Pier House, Charlestown for sea dips and pub room comfort

Charlestown is a small Cornish fishing village that became a notable port in the 1800s for transporting copper from Cornwall’s mines. Today the harbour is owned by a business that uses the location as a base for their tall ships but also for film sets, like the well-known television series, Poldark. Two of the tall ships are always in the harbour, which has plenty of charm and draw for tourists.

For swimmers, what isn’t obvious when you first arrive, is the south-facing shingle beach that is hidden beside the historic harbour. Although small, it offers a lovely 300m straight swim along the beach with water that is gin-clear or a more adventurous swim to Polmear Island. Locals jump from the harbour walls at high tide, which isn’t encouraged, but is fun when done safely.

The accommodation

The Pier House was once known as the Charlestown Hotel and was built in the late 1700s. It has a long and interesting history, but more recently was devastated by fire in 2023. This summer the pub was reopened after a significant refurbishment and transformation. It is a popular pub in prime location in the harbour, many of the bedrooms offer sea views and the downstairs pub/restaurant has outdoor seating and waterside charm. We arrived during Charlestown annual regatta to the sound of sea shanties and the smell of Cornish pasties lined up for judging. There are a range of rooms, some can accommodate families and some are dog-friendly. We stayed in one of the superior sea view rooms which gave us the sight of the sea from the bed!

The swimming

We have visited Charlestown many times to swim as the beach isn’t the main draw in the area so often is quieter than other beaches. It is a shingle beach which means the water is often clear and being tucked into a larger bay can be a more sheltered option depending on wind direction. The main beach, adjacent to the harbour and hidden down a smugglers’ tunnel, offers a 300m straight stretch of water to swim. At high tide the beach shelves quickly and so you can immerse into deep, clear sea for a decent swim.

There is also a smaller beach which the Pier House overlooks; at high tide you can swim from here around to the main beach, when conditions allow. There is also Polmere Island, which is a rock you can swim to and snorkel around. The Pier House supply change robes in your room, which means you can throw them on to walk from your room to the water, which was ideal for dips before breakfast!

The food

We arrived on a Sunday, so we were able to enjoy a traditional Sunday roast – the local beef was incredible! Much of the food on offer is what to be expected from a decent British pub but being coastal there was plenty of local fish on offer as well as other local products. Dressed crab, lobster butter fries, fish n’ chips as well as plenty of veggie and vegan options. The menu changes seasonally and breakfast is included in the room rate, which was generous and delicious. The restaurant has brilliant seaside art and décor, it was a joy to eat the gifts of the sea while looking out at it. Next door you can enjoy pizzas and beers at the Beer House, which is a sister venue to the Pier House. There are also other brilliant cafes and restaurants all harbourside, steps from where you sleep.

Best of the rest

While we stayed in Charlestown we were able to visit the nearby Eden Project, which is just 15 minutes’ drive away. Hidden in a disused quarry, Eden is home to the largest indoor living rainforest and is one of Cornwall’s popular tourist attractions. We also enjoyed mooching around independent shops in Fowey and Mevagissey.

Our favourite thing

Throwing on our Pier House change robes and walking to the beach for multiple swims, but especially the dips before breakfast.

With thanks St Austell Brewery and Pier House. For more information and to book visit: pierhousehotel.com