Beyond the desert: wild swimming in Morocco’s heartland

Morocco’s outdoor swimming secrets lie inland, where rivers carve through ancient gorges and mountain lakes glisten under the North African sun. Lola Culsán, John Weller and Danny Weller share their favourite wild swimming spots from their new book Wild Guide Morocco

Morocco’s outdoor swimming secrets lie inland, where rivers carve through ancient gorges and mountain lakes glisten under the North African sun. From the emerald pools of the La Rivière Amtoudi to hidden cascades in the Rif Mountains, each swim is a journey into the heart of a land shaped by water. Passionate outdoor swimmers Lola Culsán, John Weller and Danny Weller share eight of their favourite outdoor swimming spots from their new book Wild Guide Morocco

Oued el Kannar

The water was crystal clear and there was a deluge of deep blue pools in which to swim. We walked upriver for 30 minutes and found ourselves ensconced in the wild belly of the river gorge. We needed to wade through water up to our necks and hold our bags above our heads to reach the higher pools. The river was a rite of passage: young children splashed about at the lower pool; older kids further upstream; teenagers jumped and dived from the hillside. We watched a young woman in trousers and a long-sleeved top learning to swim.

From Steha, head south west on N16 for 5.2km; turn right onto P4111 for 13.5km; after 1.5km take the right fork; follow road for 6.5km to parking spot (35.2155, -5.0145). 5 mins, 35.2153, -5.0156

Baofa, Oued Laou

Nestled deep in a lush mountain valley, the Oued Laou river winds towards the sea. A stone bridge arches over the river, offering a perfect vantage point to take in the scenery. From the bridge, a trail snaked down to a secluded swimming spot, where smooth rocks met the river’s edge. The water was cool and crystal clear. Just downstream, small rapids ripple and splash, adding a gentle soundtrack. As we got ready to take the plunge, a young boy appeared, leading a small herd of goats down to the riverbank. After guiding them into the water to cool off from the sun’s heat, he pulled out a simple fishing rod, casting his line with a hopeful glance, eager to see what the river might offer.

From Oued Laou SW on N16 for 23km to parking spot on left (35.2948, -5.2290); walk back from the parking at the viewpoint to the turn off to the right by the bus stop to Baofa; follow a steep and rocky path 200m down to the river. 20 mins, 35.2935, -5.2309

Piscine Tiout

Tiout’s huge, unheated, stream-fed swimming pool sits beside a palm grove. Children’s laughter filled the air as they jumped, dived and played, while others sat around chatting. The water was naturally clear and fresh; we saw an army of frogs blithely floating by the steps leading into the pool; their protruding eyes surveying the fun around them. Busy on a Sunday afternoon, so visit on a weekday morning to have the place to yourself.

Ignore Google maps; from Tiout Village, head south for 1.5km until you reach the car park (30.3819, -8.6977); the pool is on your right. For post swim treats, take a stroll through Oasis Tiout, where a variety of cafés offer mint tea and delicious freshly fried doughnuts. 1 min, 30.3819, -8.6984

Tissint River

River swimming in the desert. Tall cliffs overlooked soft, yellow sand and water as clear as an epiphany. We floated on our backs, mesmerised as ducks flew overhead, their quacks punctuating the still air. The gentle rustling of palm trees and the distant murmur of the river completed the symphony. Here was the perfect picnic spot on a sandy beach, complete with nature’s own swimming pool. If you’ve had lunch, or are staying at Amoudou Lodge Camp, Ali will provide you with tea and cosy blankets. This was one swim we won’t forget.

Walk across from Amoudou Lodge Camp or walk west for 1km along the river from Point de Vue Tissint. 5 mins, 29.9101, -7.3388

Lake Ifni, Toubkal National Park

Reaching the brow of the hill, we overlooked Lake Ifni, a giant blue opal shimmering beneath the barren rocks of the surrounding High Atlas Mountains. The scramble down to its edge was a bit daunting, with loose stones sliding beneath our feet. As we approached the water, fish surfaced curiously and swifts darted overhead. Tentatively, we dipped our toes in and were pleasantly surprised – it wasn’t as cold as expected, despite the lake being fed by glacial melt from nearby peaks. At 800m long and about 50m deep, its size is impressive. Lying on our backs, gazing up at the vast expanse of blue sky, we were alone together, completely in tune with nature. The tranquillity was broken only by the faint buzzing of bees, the occasional song of swifts and the distant bleat of a goat.

Drive to the top of Imhilene village where the road ends and park outside Hussain’s house for a small fee – he will also offer you mint tea; from parking (31.0189, -7.8655), follow the winding path up to Lake Ifni with a 540m elevation gain. 150 mins, 31.0300, -7.8806

Pool of Aït Mansour, Tafraoute

Lie back in the water and relax in the gentle grip of the mountains in the pool of Aït Mansour. Fringed by palm trees and peaks, the silence of this man-made pool in the River Mansour is only broken by the gurgle of the water as it trickles downstream. This pool is a patch of watery paradise in the otherwise unbroken rocky beauty of the Anti-Atlas Mountains, a perfect place to decamp for an afternoon swim on your way through the mountain passes.

From Souk N Tasrirt, head south for 11km to parking (29.5478, -8.8771); walk 100m south down the road and the pool will be on your right. 2 mins, 29.5475, -8.8759

La Riviere Amtoudi

Walking along the riverbed, among the shady palm trees, the layered orange walls of the vast gorge towered above us. We were serenaded by birdsong as we headed for the water source, a vital lifeline that keeps the palm and argan trees lush and green. Soon we started to climb and began to see some small pools emerge between pink flowering oleanders, and the babble of a waterfall drifted to our ears. The water was deep, transparent and full of fish. We jumped off a rock and swam through the narrow channel. Further on, we discovered another pool where we dived again into the depths of the cool, clear water.

Park where you can in Amtoudi; walk east along the path on the left-hand side of the palmeraie; cross to the other side at the rock with Arabic writing, bearing the legend ‘Marhaba’ (Welcome). Follow the channel of the riverbed until you reach the pools; 11km there and back; 890m elevation gain. 90 mins, 29.2309, -9.1684

Sidi Harazem, Fes

The Sidi Harazem thermal complex, designed in the 1960s by Jean-François Zevaco, is a bold Brutalist masterpiece of post-colonial Modernist architecture. Fed by hot springs, the magnificent swimming pool boasts a striking circular design and vast basin of sparkling, blue water. Above the pool, a second circular structure serves as a canopy, supported by a conical concrete pillar. Only men and children are allowed to swim in the pool, although wives may watch if they are suitably covered. Women can enjoy the same spring-fed water in the smaller of the round pools. We found a mixed outdoor pool to the south of the complex. Large parts of Sidi Harazem are in need of reconstruction and in 2017 a rehabilitation project was launched. Phase one is underway. Stay in the Hotel Sidi Harazem next door; hotel-sidiharazem.com

Sidi Harazem Center, Sidi Harazem 30205 5 mins, 34.0278, -4.8847

Lola Culsán, John Weller and Danny Weller are authors of Wild Guide Morocco: Great Adventures through Mountain, Coast and Desert – 500 secret adventures and 200 wilder places to eat and sleep. Available now from Wild Things Publishing. RRP £18.99. Outdoor Swimmer Magazine readers receive 20% off and free P&P with code OS20 at wildthingspublishing.com