Swimming spot: West Beach, Berneray

Alice Goodridge, author of Swimming Wild in Scotland, is your guide to this beautiful Hebridean beach, famed for its white sand and turquoise waters.

From my first peek of the turquoise water through the dunes, I fell in love with Berneray’s West Beach.

Berneray has a rich history for such a small island, and its natural habitats support varied and abundant wildlife. Look out for otter tracks in the sand and Arctic terns nesting in the dunes.

The beach has some of the clearest sea water I have ever had the pleasure to swim in; when I visited I had to pinch myself and remind myself that I was in Scotland, not the Caribbean!

I’m not the only one to think this beach looks more tropical than its location would suggest. In 2009, a Thai resort used a picture of the beach to promote their local beach, Kai Bae Beach. The rounded hills of Harris in the distance gave the game away.

Of course, I am aware that I have visited in good weather and that it doesn’t always look like a holiday brochure, but if you catch it under blue skies, there is nowhere quite like it.

The swim at West Beach, Berneray

From the car park, follow the sandy track up through the machair and over the dunes to the beach. The entry is sandy and gently sloping, and you can get in anywhere along the beach. I have only ever pottered about here, marvelling at the clarity of the water.

The westfacing section of the beach is over three kilometres long, meaning that longer
swims parallel to the beach are also possible. As with many beaches in the Outer Hebrides, ensure you keep close to the shore to avoid tidal currents between the islands.

Getting to West Beach, Berneray

Cross the causeway to Berneray from North Uist and take the first right. Follow the road past the Berneray Shop & Bistro and take the next left, signposted Borve and Community Hall. Once you pass the hall, continue over the cattle grid and follow the brown parking and picnic signs. It is around 1.8 kilometres further along the road (or track in places) to the small car park for the beach. There are picnic benches but no other facilities.

Refreshments on Berneray

• Berneray Shop & Bistro, Borve. Handy little local shop and restaurant. The shop is open all year; check the opening hours of the restaurant before you travel.
  • Berneray Hot Plate, Berneray Ferry Terminal. A food truck by the ferry terminal and a great place to grab early morning breakfast rolls or hot drinks. Opening times tend to coincide with ferry departures.

Swimming Wild in Scotland by Alice Goodridge is an informative and inspiring guidebook for both new and experienced wild swimmers, featuring over 100 of the best wild swimming spots across the Scottish mainland and islands. It will be in bookshops from 11 May and can be pre-ordered from adventurebooks.com or directly from the author at swimwilduk.com.

Browse more wild places to swim.