Weekend swim retreat: The Smuggler’s Rest, North Devon
North Devon might be famous for surfing, but its rugged coastline hides a wealth of coves, channels and wild swimming spots. Editor Ella discovers the best of the coast, with a welcoming base at The Smuggler’s Rest in Mortehoe
It’s been a while since I visited the North Devon coast and, as soon as we arrived in Mortehoe with views of the sea on both sides, I wondered why I stayed away so long. The coastline here is a mix of rugged rocks with steep steps down to carved out coves alongside long stretches of surfing beaches. I often think North Devon and think surf, rather than swim, but I was wrong to limit myself in this way. Beaches like Woolacombe, Croyde and Saunton Sands do attract surfers and those who like to splash in the shallows, but between these famous sands there are rocky channels that offer swimming spots and adventures. We arrived as the sun set over the sea, another attraction of this coastline.
The accommodation
Despite never visiting the area or staying at The Smuggler’s Rest before, we were welcomed like old friends and immediately felt at home. It is a unique skill to make everyone feel like your place is their place, and Stacey and Will Jones have nailed it.
The location at the head of the village makes it a place for locals as well as tourists and the warmth that greets you inside is more than just the heat from the kitchen; this is a place with soul.
Stacey and Will have hosted people at The Smuggler’s Rest for 10 years and yet their passion for the place felt vibrant and fresh. As well as offering eight unique rooms, each with their own character. They also run Miss Fea’s Bistro on the ground floor, a seasonal restaurant serving incredible locally-sourced food. We stayed in one of the smaller rooms, which was cosy, clean and beautifully decorated with amazing light and views over the moorland. Other rooms include freestanding slipper bath tubs and extra space, but all are en-suite with soft towels, luxury toiletries and home-made biscuits! Room rates include breakfast and the morning menu is incredible.
The swimming
The nearest beach, Grunta, is about a 10-minute walk downhill and the last bit is a climb down steps and a track. You can swim here at high and low tide, however, as with much of this coastline, care is needed and it isn’t great in large swell and waves. Because it is a little trickier to get to, it is often quieter and in calm conditions has channels and pools to explore. A little further along the coastline towards Woolacombe are more coves and small beaches, easier to get to at low tide. We loved Barricane Beach, which offers a great channel between rocks to swim in safely, there is also a café for hot drinks after.
The coastline here is a wonder for swimmers, with plenty of places to walk and explore. North of Mortehoe there are further small beaches and coves and to the South, beyond the long stretches of Croyde and Saunton Sands, you can find estuary beaches near Instow which are great during low tide. There’s a North Devon Wild Swimming Walks book that has several great swimming spots to explore, including inland ponds and rivers. You won’t be bored while staying here.
The food
Miss Fea’s Bistro is open in the evenings and draws a local crowd, so ensure you book a table when you book your room. The menu changes with the season and offers local produce, fresh meat and fish. The food is generous, inventive and cooked with passion. I enjoyed the monkfish while my partner enjoyed a low and slow pork belly; we had just two courses and we were stuffed. Breakfast is served in the bistro each morning and it is much more than the standard offer. That low and slow pork belly was offered as a benedict with poached eggs and the pancakes looked incredible. The full English is everything you would hope to set you up for a day in and around the water.
Best of the rest
As well as plenty of walking loops with dipping and swimming opportunities there is a lot locally to discover. Woolacombe beach and town are nearby, as is the popular resort town, Ilfracombe. A bit further north you can find the Valley of the Rocks, Lynton and Lynmouth and Exmoor National Park.
Our fave thing
Like many guests, we loved hanging out with the family dog, Kingsley, who is so soft mannered. You really can’t resist a cuddle with them, but overall we just loved how the place made us feel – at home, by the sea.
With thanks to the team at The Smuggler’s Rest. For more information and to book visit: thesmugglersrest.co.uk
Ella Foote
Ella is renowned outdoor swimmer and journalist. As well as leading the editorial, digital and experiential outputs for Outdoor Swimmer she is also Director of Dip Advisor, a swim guiding business helping people enjoy wild water. Ella also teaches swimming to children and adults, is an Open Water Coach and RLSS Open Water Lifeguard.
