Top 6 swim-walks in North Devon

Wild Swimming Walks Exmoor and North Devon is a new book by Matt Newbury and Sophie Pierce. Here are some of their favourite swims to inspire a swim-walking weekend

North Devon is known for its ‘hogsback’ cliffs – great shoulders of rock that drop dramatically to the sea. It has the highest coastline on the British mainland, reaching 314m at Culbone Hill. The Exmoor shoreline is also the most remote in England; there is no access by land to large stretches of it, and even with a boat there are many places that are completely inaccessible. Many of the walks in this book are pretty challenging, because of the steep climbs and descents: the coast path through Somerset and on to Devon is like a rollercoaster at times.

This coastline contains all manner of different swim experiences. In the most easterly part, a fossil-filled stone pavement forms the seabed and ridges of rock edge the shore at Kilve on the Somerset coast. Heading west, you reach Blue Anchor Bay, a huge beach which is only swimmable at high tide; still further west, the tiny harbour and shingle of Porlock Weir is a complete contrast.

Heading into Devon, at Watermouth you can swim around Sexton’s Burrow, a half-tidal island sitting at the mouth of the cove. Hele Bay, just next to Ilfracombe, has a handy slipway into the water and is sheltered, making it beloved by a big local community of swimmers. Heading down to Baggy Point, you will find an enchanting lagoon on the southern edge of the headland, while Velator Quay at the mouth of the Taw-Torridge estuary is a beautiful tidal river swim off an elegant wooden jetty. The most south-westerly part of the coast in the book, from Bideford to Marsland Mouth, has fantastical rock formations and several huge waterfalls crashing down onto the beaches below.

Blackchurch Rock and Clovelly circular swim-walk

This is a magnificent walk through the picturesque village of Clovelly and a scenic stretch of the North Devon coast, with swims in a harbour and through a natural arch. It’s everything our books are all about – beautiful countryside, stunning views, social history, literary connections (Charles Kingsley, Rudyard Kipling and Charles Dickens), several amazing swims and a pub or two to enjoy along the way. There are some steep climbs on this circular walk, but they are all rewarded with magnificent views across to Lundy Island, which is also featured in our book. We spent the night at one of the pubs in Clovelly when researching the book and found it fascinating chatting to Clovellians about their way of life in this charming and car-free village.

Watermouth Bay and Broadsands swim-walk

This walk takes in a mini-adventure around a half-tidal island, as well as a swim on a beach which known as “Little Thailand” because of its resemblance to exotic climes. It starts in Watermouth Bay, near Ilfracombe, with a swim out along its long, U-shaped harbour, and around Sexton’s Burrow, an islet at the end separated from the shore by a narrow channel. Then it’s a short stomp uphill, taking in a famous viewpoint down to the next beach, Broadsands, one of the most photographed parts of the North Devon coast. There are a couple of hundred steps to tackle to get down to the beach, and of course it’s even worse going back up, but a swim here will never be forgotten. The water is clear and blue, and there are caves and channels to explore.

Tarr Steps and the River Barle circular swim-walk

This is a lovely riverside stroll along the River Barle, with several swimming spots along the tree-lined banks. It starts at the legendary Tarr Steps, a 17-span ‘clapper bridge’ and the longest of its kind in the UK. The route has a real Tolkienesque-feel, taking you under a cloak of oak, silver birch, ash, beech and sycamore trees and over ancient slabs of granite as the river flows by. There are several swimming spots along the route, including a lovely large pool with mossy rocks to put your clothes on and then slabs to step down into the water from under the canopy of trees. It’s a picturesque spot to swim and worth bringing your goggles to look out for fish darting through the clear waters below you. Rather conveniently, on your way back to the car park you will pass the Tarr Farm Inn, which is the perfect place for some post-walk refreshments.

Hartland Quay and Speke’s Mill Mouth swim-walk

Speke’s Mill Mouth is the most spectacular of North Devon’s famous hanging waterfalls; the wonderful thing about this swim-walk is that you can have dips in both saltwater and fresh. The walk starts at Hartland Quay, a historic harbour, and it’s best to arrive at high water, so you can have a swim before setting off. The route takes you along the coast’s dramatic cliffs, with views over to Lundy Island, before arriving at the waterfall with its stunning beach below. If you time it right there is a beautiful natural tidal pool where you can have a dip before rinsing off in the waterfall. The walk then heads inland through a quaint hamlet and a pretty village before arriving back at Hartland Quay.

Porlock Weir and Culbone Church swim-walk

This walk starts at the picturesque port of Porlock Weir, where the lush, wooded cliffs of Exmoor tumble down to the sea. If you’ve timed your walk to start at high tide, we would highly recommend a swim here before you set off. The best place to enter the water is from the pebble beach by the harbour, and then bob amongst the pleasure craft in a sea so clear the area has been awarded category A waters, which also allows the famous Porlock Bay oysters to thrive. The walk heads up through verdant woodland and under some famous ‘fairy tunnels’ to England’s smallest church in a quiet, shaded combe. The route returns along a hilltop track with extraordinary views across to the Gower in Wales, and then back down through more woods to Porlock Weir and perhaps another swim or a pint in the pub.

East Lyn swim-walk

This is a stunning river walk through a wonderful rocky gorge, which feels like fairyland. The river is packed with cascades and channels as well as some lovely pools. The route starts in the pretty village of Brendon, and heads west along the northern bank, towards the sea at Lynmouth. You are surround by ancient oak trees and mossy boulders with nodding ferns, and pass several places you can stop and swim. The central point of the walk is at Watersmeet, where there is a café where you can have a pitstop before heading back along the other side of the river. Here you pass the famous and rather eerie Long Pool which is a very atmospheric place for your final swim on the walk.

‘Wild Swimming Walks Exmoor and North Devon’ is published by Wild Things Publishing. Outdoor Swimmer readers can receive 20% off the book and free P&P with code OSMag24 at wildthingspublishing.com

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