Top 6 wild swimming walks in Eryri

Emma Marshall, author of a new guide book Wild Swimming Walks Eryri/Snowdonia shares six of her favourite swim-hikes in the National Park

From rugged peaks to beautiful valleys, tumbling rivers to epic waterfalls, serene pools to breathtaking lakes, Eryri (meaning ‘the highlands’) is a land of jaw-dropping beauty and a place where water abounds. Ancient glaciers have carved mountain lakes and valleys, waterfalls and rivers have sculpted its valleys, while man has added pools from slate mining.

There’s also its unique culture, language, history, and heritage. The National Park came into being in 1951 and was the first in Wales. It is also home to 26,000 people, more than half are Welsh-speaking. And watch out, as many swim spots have local legends involving the Tylwyth Teg, literally ‘the fair folk’, the Welsh fairies: Fair-haired, small, and without speech, they typically lived in lakes or streams and were somewhat mischievous!

The best wild swimming walks in Eryri (Snowdonia)

Cadair Idris, Llyn Cau & Llyn Mwyngil circular

This wonderful 10-mile mountain walk treats us to two breathtaking lake swims. The mighty ridges of Cadair Idris enclose a dreamy swim in the crystal clear, mirror-like Llyn Cau. Plus, there’s a second swim in one of Eryri’s most picturesque lakes towards the end of the walk. 

The Minffordd Path up Cadair Idris quickly gains height up rocky steps, within ancient woodland, alongside the tumbling Nant Cadair stream. After just over a mile the path branches right to reach the mountain cupped Llyn Cau for our first swim. Afterwards, head back up the steep path, following the rim of the ridge, until you eventually reach the summit. Track back and out onto the grassy spur of Mynydd Pencoed, passing a marooned pond and downwards until you pass the farm of Rhiwogof. The path drops down through trees emerging onto a lane, where you turn right to discover a secret entry into the stunningly beautiful Llyn Mwyngil. Post-swim, retrace your steps for a while and follow the silent, pretty lane alongside the lake, passing through many gates. After a brief section of walking along the pavement-less B4405, you return to the start of the walk.

Cwm Pennant circular

An enchanting five-mile route for the intrepid walk-swimmer, featuring a tunnel-accessed emerald quarry pool, a cosy bothy and a dreamy river pool.

Parking is by a lovely large, lane-side pool in the Afon Dwyfor, giving you the option to swim here at either the beginning or end of the walk.

Although it doesn’t have a great deal of elevation, this route is strenuous in places due to the absence of paths and the need for bush-whacking through fern and yomping over tussocky ground.

The path starts across a field and soon enters a mossy woodland, emerging on a track where we turn right. Beyond a house we enter fern-filled fields and pass through an old metal gate. Around rocky outcrops, continue south-westerly, heading for a ruined house on the horizon. Beyond the ruin we pass the intriguing bothy, Cae Amos, and onwards to the hidden Moelfre Quarry pool. There can’t be many swimming spots accessed by a tunnel. The water in the tunnel isn’t very deep but it is necessary to bend to avoid banging your head! After your swim the route follows the old quarry track down to the lane, where you turn left for a peaceful stroll back to the start.

Craflwyn, the Watkin Path Pools and Llyn Dinas circular

A lovely five-mile walk through a landscape of ancient legends, which offers unmissable waterfall pools and an unusually warm lake.

The walk begins on the National Trust Craflwyn Estate near Beddgelert. A woodland path leads the way, ribboning through impressive tall pines, until you reach a secret path, identifiable by a black water pipe on the ground, up to an emerald-green waterfall pool. A little further on is the rocky fortress, Dinas Emrys, legendary home of Wales’ red dragon. The path then meanders across high heathland before heading down to meet the Watkin Path (one of the six main paths up Yr Wyddfa / Snowdon) Here we turn left to reach the Insta-famous Watkin Pools, stunningly clear and turquoise. Back down the path, we turn right onto the A498 at Pont Bethania and take the lane on the left over the river. Our route now skirts the serene Llyn Dinas, which provides our final swim opportunity at the far end of the lake. Post-swim we continue with the Afon Glaslyn on your right, crossing a road bridge and then following the opposite bank of the river until you emerge back at Craflwyn.

Llyn Hafod y Llyn & Llyn Mair circular

A charming three-mile walk through gnarled, ancient woodland with swims in amphitheatres of rhododendron and oak with only woodpeckers and the hoots of steam trains for company.

With its shimmering streams, rocky ridges, fern-clad gorges and twin lakes, the mild, damp climate of Coed Hafod y Llyn (‘the wood of the lake’s summer dwelling’), near Maentwrog, provides a beautiful, wild haven for diverse flora and fauna.

The network of woodland paths that connect the lakes are worth exploring to discover the ferns, mosses, liverworts, lichens and, in autumn, a great number of wonderful fungi (‘Ffwng’ in Welsh).

The first of the lakes, down an undulating path, is Llyn Hafod y Llyn. It is well-known among the local wild-swimming community and is a lovely sheltered spot. During May and June, you will swim in an arena of pink rhododendron blossom. The path beyond the lake crosses the Ffestiniog Railway line and the hissing, huffing and hooting sounds are a lovely feature of this walk. As the path weaves through the trees to reach pretty Llyn Mair, you will notice her two tiny, rhododendron and birch-topped islands.

Llyn Caseg Fraith, Llyn Bochlwyd & Llyn Ogwen circular

Providing a fair amount of elevation through the rocky Glyderau, this strenuous, five-mile route visits the ultimate mountain pool, the mysterious and peaty Llyn Caseg Fraith; the legend-sprinkled Llyn Bochlwyd; and the magnificent Llyn Ogwen.

From the A5 at Glan Dena take the path up to the left of Tryfan Bach into quiet Cwm Tryfan. Head straight, and not right into Cwm Tryfan, and up a scree path that leads to the shoulder between Glyder Fach and Y Foel Goch. Turn left for your swim in Llyn Caseg Fraith (‘Lake of the Speckled Mare’) and retrace your steps, but this time instead of descending the scree, continue ahead up towards Bwlch Tryfan. Drop down to reach the next swimming spot at Llyn Bochlwyd, which means, ‘Lake of the grey cheek’. According to local legend, this is where an old grey stag, fleeing hunters and harried to exhaustion by hounds, miraculously escaped by leaping from the edge of a cliff into the lake and swam to safety while holding its grey cheeks above the surface of the water to breathe. Continue following the tumbling Nant Bochlwyd back down to the A5 for a final swim in Llyn Ogwen and back to the start of the walk.

Nant Ffrancon & Afon Ogwen circular

This five-and-a-half-mile walk explores one of Wales’ most dramatic valleys with a swim in a deep velvety river under the Glyderau and Carneddau mountain ranges.

Our route starts at Braich Melyn, just south of Bethesda, on a steep path leading up through lush green, rock-strewn woodland. The conifers soon give way to twisted, moss-laden oaks and the way ahead opens out dramatically onto the hillside, a riot of yellow and purple when the gorse and heather are in full bloom. You’ll marvel at the stunning views down into the valley and they continue as you descend Llwybr yr Offeiriad (‘The Priests Path’). Once over the A5, our path crosses fields to reach our swim spot at a bridge over the Afon Ogwen. This section of river is deep and slow-moving, and swimming upstream towards the magnificent Glyderau is a thrilling experience. Glyder Fawr, Glyder Fach, Y Garn and Pen yr Ole Wen stand sentinel over the Nant Ffrancon Valley, towering ahead as you push through the velvety waters. A silent lane, that detours along the edge of the historic Penrhyn Quarry, returns us to the start and a second swim in a river pool.

‘Wild Swimming Walks Eryri/Snowdonia’ by Emma Marshall is published by Wild Things Publishing. Outdoor Swimmer readers can receive 20% discount and free P&P with code OSMag24 at wildthingspublishing.com