Top 6 wild swimming walks in West Wales
Nia Lloyd Knott, author of two Wild Swimming Walks books, including the brand new book for West Wales, shares six of her favourite wild swimming walks in West Wales
West Wales has a long history of folk taking to the water for health and leisure purposes. From the bathers who flocked to the resorts of Aberystwyth and Tenby in Victorian times, and the competitive sea swimmers of the centuries-old Solva and Cwm-yr- Eglwys Regattas, to today’s flocks of Bluetits and Ironmen, the West Wales coastline has always been a draw to swimmers of all leanings.
Inland, the almost-forgotten hinterlands offer solitude and sublime scenic beauty. Wander the wooded valleys and dip in the waterfalls of rivers winding and tumbling their way down from the Elenydd, a vast upland expanse with wide open skies and lost lakes. In every corner of this region, you can discover a wealth of history, culture and community. You’ll find tales of poets and princes, saints and stones, learn about sailors and smugglers, and uncover a region known for its food and flannel.
Few places in Britain can rival the ‘wild west’ for its remarkable wildlife with seals, dolphins, puffins and peregrines all counted among the region’s revered residents.
Tenby’s wild side
It feels fitting to start off at what is arguably the capital of sea swimming in West Wales. Of course, in a region so known for its sea swimming opportunities that title is contested, but as a resort which was developed for Victorian sea bathers, and as home to the Long Course, Ironman and Tenfoot swimming events, few would argue.
This 9½ mile route explores the wonderful coastline, wooded valleys and country lanes surrounding the bustling town. A steep descent takes us to the idyllic sandy tidal beach of Monkstone Bay, often missed when walking the coast path between Saundersfoot and Tenby. With densely vegetated cliffs plunging down to an arc of soft golden sand, you’ll want to linger over this first swim spot. A leg busting stretch of coastal path follows, leading to a second swim at the secret cove of Waterwynch. In Tenby, there are no fewer than four beaches to choose from, and you can take a break here for ice cream, crab sandwiches or some of the famous fudge.
The second half of the walk takes you through tranquil wetland and woodland, a far cry from the crowds in town on a summer day. Wander along flower-lined lanes to complete the circle.
St Non’s and St Davids
St Davids is a place of religious and natural reverence, where people are either drawn to pray, or to play in the wild blue waters encompassing the peninsula. A five-mile circular walk begins and ends in Britain’s smallest city, and along the way you’ll discover the birthplace of not only Wales’ Patron Saint, but of coasteering, the scrambling-swimming hybrid coastal sport which was invented here.
A quiet lane leads down to the ruins of St Non’s Chapel, where legend has it, she gave birth to St David during a violent storm. Below, a vertiginous path leads down the wildflower-jewelled cliffs to a rocky bay. A committing swim, best suited to experienced swimmers, leads to a cliff arch which is fun to explore in calm conditions. Be sure to tow a float and wear a bright hat to stay visible to other water users.
The harbour and cliffs around Porthclais offer more exciting swimming and coasteering opportunities, but if you prefer a tranquil beach swim you’ll be in utter heaven in the crystal clear waters at Porthlysgi, before wandering back to the town past a rocky outcrop which was once the settlement of renowned Irish pirate Boia.
Mwnt and Aberporth
Set aside a whole day to enjoy this 11-mile route with its myriad swimming and wildlife watching opportunities. Begin in Aberporth, and enjoy the relaxed holiday atmosphere before following a quiet route through woodland and farmland with expansive views over the sweep of Cardigan Bay.
Aberporth has a positive swimming culture and the sea is swimmable at both high and low tide. It is lifeguarded at peak season so a good choice for those less confident or starting out on their wild swimming journey.
The second swim on this route is at Mwnt, a perfect horseshoe-shaped powder sand beach tucked between towering cliffs. As you return on the coast path, keep your eyes out for dolphins, this is one of the best places to spot them from land. If you have strong knees and are sure-footed you can tackle the steep descent to a secreted cove known as Traeth y Gwyrddon, with excellent jumps, dives and snorkelling. End the day back at Aberporth for a sunset swim.
Cwm Rheidol
Wander through woodland and climb high up onto the hillside for far-reaching views over Cwm Rheidol, surely one of the most beautiful valleys in the region. Swim in the river accompanied by birdsong and the echoes of the steam train.
Beginning at a much-loved cascade surrounded by wooded hillsides deep in the Rheidol’s valley, where a gravelly beach allows good access to a pool below the falls, warm up again by climbing high onto the northern hills, through the Coed Simdde Llwyd National Nature Reserve. In spring you’ll walk through a carpet of bluebells to a soundtrack of chiffchaff and warblers. A high route takes you through farmland with exceptional vistas of the surrounding countryside, before descending to an excellent place to swim on a bend in the river. Swim upstream and swoosh back down towards the bridge with the current on the outside of the bend, or bob about in the shallows on a gently sloping beach.
Return through verdant fields and woodland following the river’s course back upstream, with plenty of interest along the way. From the huge and unexpected hydroelectric power station – surprisingly tranquil given its scale – to the ruins of metal mine workings and the picnic area overlooking Rheidol Vale Falls, a favourite beauty spot with tourists past and present.
Teifi Pools and Claerddu
Explore the expanse of the Elenydd uplands at the Teifi Pools, lakes galore glittering at the source of the River Teifi, at the geographical centre of Wales. This 10-mile walk with endless swimming opportunities can be done in a day but you could opt to extend your trip with overnight stay in the remote Claerddu Bothy to make two very leisurely days of it.
Beginning in Ystrad Fflur, home to the ruins of Strata Florida Abbey, the route climbs up towards Llyn Teifi, the source of West Wales’ longest river, and where it begins its 76-mile journey to the sea. Officially no swimming is allowed in this dammed lake, but there are plenty of other lakes surrounding it where there are no ‘no swimming’ signs to be found. Arriving at Claerddu bothy, a bare bones shelter where respectful visitors can sleep for the night on a wooden platform inside the old farm cottage, a stream leads to a small, glittering waterfall where legend has it a giant known as Arthur once washed his hands. An outand- back leg leads you to the remote and wild Llynnau Fyrddon, twin lakes at the geographical centre of Wales. Bring your best navigation skills. Return through the peaceful and impossibly scenic Egnant valley.
Wild Swimming Walks West Wales by Nia Lloyd Knott is published by Wild Things Publishing.
Outdoor Swimmer Magazine readers receive 20% off and free P&P with code OS20 at wildthingspublishing.com
Outdoor Swimmer
Outdoor Swimmer is the magazine for outdoor swimmers by outdoor swimmers. We write about fabulous wild swimming locations, amazing swim challenges, swim training advice and swimming gear reviews.
