A winter swimming adventure in Iceland

Lindsey Cole often claims she is useless in the cold, which made Iceland a strange choice for an adventure. But she learns Iceland is so much more than the weather and enjoys hot springs, Northern Lights and friendship as 2023 begins.

“They’re like our pubs, you must check them out too,” an Icelandic friend said about swimming pools.

When I set out to write an article about swimming in Iceland, I never anticipated I’d venture to an actual swimming pool. They really are a ‘thing’ on the Nordic island.

Home to more than 200 volcanoes, Iceland has an abundant source of hot and accessible underground water. As well as creating magical hot springs all over the dramatic landscape, there’s a plethora of naturally heated swimming pools across the country. Whatever size the town is, it will always have a grocery store and a pool. There are seven pools in Reykjavik alone – not bad for a population the size of Horsham.

The pool is said to be a staple of the community – a daily meeting place for people.

“You can’t tell the difference between a plumber and a politician.” Iceland’s First Lady, Eliza Reid said, “but given that a soak can last a long time, you do have the chance to talk about much more than weather.”

My home for the week was a Campeasy van and beside the only campsite in the most northern
capital city in the world was, of course, a swimming pool. So, for my first morning in Iceland, I got to experience an impromptu swimming pool visit at Laugardalslaug. The glow of the floodlights illuminating the steam rising from the pool was incredibly alluring despite it still being dark and snowing heavily.

The large clock at the end of the pool flitted between “Minus 6 degrees”, “11 am” and “28C”. It was the only thing guiding me to the end of the 50m length as the fog was so thick I couldn’t see beyond my hands. I flipped over for a few lengths of backstroke, catching snowflakes in my mouth before hopping into one of the many hot pots dotted around the pool.

Here I got talking to two locals, who’d nipped in for a soak and catch up before returning to full households for the Christmas break.

Seismic activity

Iceland’s volcanism can be attributed to its location on the Mid Atlantic Ridge, which runs through the middle of the country and was the spot for my next swim. The Eurasian and North American tectonic plates are moving a few centimetre apart each year, Silfra, a fissure in Thingvellir National Park, is the only place in the world where you can swim in a crack between two tectonic plates.

Unfortunately, the water is glacial, not geothermal. “If you press this button on your dry suit,” David said pointing to his chest, grinning, “then it will heat up your suit.” I assumed he was joking but was relieved when he said he wasn’t. What an incredible and necessary invention. Unfortunately, he was joking about not joking. Very cruel!

He then went on to add that the water remains between two-four degrees all year, and is tough snorkelling in summer. “During winter, it’s extreme snorkelling!” He grinned again, menacingly.

The glacier water was actually warmer than the minus six air temperature, so getting in felt almost pleasurable. For a moment. There’s only four hours of sunlight during winter, but every hour there is light it’s stunning golden hour.

Silfra is said to have the clearest water in the world, but I was actually happier admiring the passing snow glowing pink as I floated along my back, and the moon shining above, than freezing my face to sight see below. It was so cold, my hands stuck to the metal railings on the exit, like Harry’s tongue did on the ski lift in Dumb and Dumber. If ever there was a time to use ‘wild swimming’ this was it, especially as it was Iceland’s coldest winter in 100 years.

Knowing I’m useless in cold water, I booked us into a geothermal pool to warm up.

Laugarvatn Fontana is located on the Golden Circle, only a half hour drive from Silfra. The spa is a rabbit warren of pools varying in temperature and healing powers. I sat in the hottest one, staring at the stars above. One of the springs from the Laugarvarn lake is used for the geothermal heating of all homes and buildings in the local municipality.

Feel the warmth

Over 90% of all homes and businesses in Iceland are kept warm with geothermal hot water for an enviable minimal fee – basically free. It’s very tempting to move to Iceland, isn’t it?!

After a day of seeing the natural wonders on the Golden Circle, we ventured to a natural hot spring to finish the day. Round the corner from the Secret Lagoon, Iceland’s oldest natural swimming pool, and possibly not such a secret, is Hrunalaug. The three pools range from 32-40C, which make it very hard to get out, especially when it’s snowing. If you visit in winter and dunk under, be prepared for a headful of icicles.

Up in the hills, surrounded by snow as the sun dipped below the horizon, this really was a magical way to end the day.

The great thing about travelling in a campervan is you can be flexible if plans change, say due to weather, and you can stay in locations that would otherwise be top dollar. I had planned to visit Seljavellir – one of Iceland’s oldest swimming pools, located under the notorious Eyjafjallajökull, which erupted in 2010.

As we arrived, other travellers drove pass shaking their heads. Having got stuck in snow the day before, and knowing I had another swim planned the following day, we decided against it.

We pulled up to Skagafoss nearby and low and behold the Aurora Borealis was swirling above the cliff face, just above the gush of the waterfall. Hurray. I wasn’t quite swimming when I saw it, but water was involved.

New Year dip

Is there any better way to start the new year than a dip in the ocean? The -14 C air temperature and slabs of ice on the North Atlantic Ocean didn’t stop the Icelanders embracing this tradition in fancy dress either. Some stormed through the ice in reindeer onesies, others delicately entered in glam sparkly dresses and tiaras. My own boyfriend stomped in in his DIY astronaut outfit, crouched under and sang a Geordie folksong – which a few nearby locals joined in with in Icelandic, making Icelandic news. I watched shivering on the sidelines realising, reluctantly, that I had to get in it too. But first, I needed to warm up in my favourite – the hot pot.

I was invited to Nautholsvik Geothermal Beach’s in Reykjavik, by Birna Bjornsdottir who joined me in the hot pot, along with almost a hundred others. An Icelandic native, but having grown up in landlocked Luxembourg, Birna returned to her motherland recently. “The ocean revives me. I’ve made great friends through it and now can’t leave Iceland because of it.“

Birna said, as I was thinking that I really couldn’t leave the hotpot, knowing my ice dunk was imminent. I did it though, and what I lacked in fancy dress, I made up for in squeals.

Iceland in winter is cold. Incredibly cold. But it’s also absolute magic, an experience I would repeat again and recommend to everyone.

This article is from the February issue of Outdoor Swimmer. Click here to subscribe to the magazine.

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