Swimming spot: Eas Chia-aig Waterfall, Spean Bridge

Eas Chia-aig is a mesmerising double waterfall with a deep plunge pool at the bottom. Alice Goodridge, author of Swimming Wild in Scotland, is your guide

Eas Chia-aig (Eas Chia-Bhalg in Gaelic – possibly meaning ‘Waterfall of the Bulge’) is a mesmerising double waterfall with a deep plunge pool at the bottom. It was here that Liam Neeson leapt over the bridge to avoid being captured by the English in the 1995 Hollywood blockbuster Rob Roy.

I’ve been lucky enough to swim here on summer days when water levels have been low, and sunbeams danced through the water. I’ve also dipped here on cooler days when the flow has been a bit more feisty, but still safe enough to dunk.

Stepping into the black, churning water, it is easy to understand why this waterfall also goes by the name of the Witch’s Cauldron.

The surface of the water is restless and choppy, like swimming through a bubbling pot of tar – although somewhat colder than I would imagine that would feel.

The swim at Eas Chia-aig Waterfall

The entry to the pool is stony and, although initially quite shallow, gets deep around the base of the falls. The plunge pool is small, but there is enough room for a couple of people to swim. As tempting as it is, do not jump in. Someone visiting broke several bones in their foot while leaping off the rocks into the lower pool.

Getting to Eas Chia-aig Waterfall

Take the A82 north out of Spean Bridge, then turn on to the B8004 towards Gairlochy. Continue on to the Gairlochy Swing Bridge over the Caledonian Canal and turn right after the bridge on to the B8005 to reach the Forestry Commission car park at Eas Chia-aig.

To access the pool beneath the waterfall, walk along the road and on the far side of the bridge there is a steep little path on the right, taking you down to the stony beach area. If a strong flow of water runs across the shallow area before you get to the deeper pool, then the flow is too fast to swim. Leave it for another time and continue walking to Loch Arkaig instead.

Refreshments at Eas Chia-aig Waterfall

There are no options close by, so I would advise taking a flask and picnic. However,
if you are craving hot food and drink, Spean Bridge isn’t too far away and has a couple of places to eat.

• The Bridge Cafe, Spean Bridge. Basic but tasty. Everything you need for a post-swim refuel. I’ve stopped here many times on my way home from the west of Scotland.
  • Spean Bridge Mill Cafe, Spean Bridge. Handy cafe at Spean Bridge Mill. Nothing fancy but good coffee and quick service (as long as a coach party has not just arrived).

Swimming Wild in Scotland by Alice Goodridge is an informative and inspiring guidebook for both new and experienced wild swimmers, featuring over 100 of the best wild swimming spots across the Scottish mainland and islands. It will be in bookshops from 11 May and can be pre-ordered from adventurebooks.com or directly from the author at swimwilduk.com.

Browse more wild places to swim.

To see all the online content from the May 2023 issue of Outdoor Swimmer, visit the 'Spring(s)' page.