Weekend swim retreat: Creeside, Dumfries & Galloway
Abi Whyte heads to an overlooked part of Scotland to explore its rivers, lochs and coast, and for a much needed digital detox
Herdwick sheep on the hill cast me a brief glance as I walk up to the shepherd’s hut, then get back to munching grass. They’ve seen visitors like me before – wrapped in a changing robe, loaded with a rucksack full of swimsuits ready for a couple of days reconnecting, recharging and, of course, swimming.
Creeside Escape sits on on the edge of Galloway Forest Park, straddling the South Ayrshire and Dumfries & Galloway border. Situated on a 200-acre hill farm, the shepherd’s hut looks out onto the River Cree and Galloway Hills beyond, offering a cosy and secluded retreat in an overlooked part of Scotland.
“People pass this area on their way to the Highlands or the Hebrides, which are of course beautiful, but there’s so much they’re missing out on in Dumfries & Galloway,” Sarah Redman, my host and swimming guide tells me. Boasting lochs, ancient woodlands, mountains and coast, this corner of southwest Scotland is somewhere I’m excited to dip my toe into.
The accommodation
Inside Creeside’s cosy shepherd’s hut you’ll find a comfy double bed, a pre-stacked log burner, cooking facilities and an ensuite composting WC. The decor is charming and eclectic, with little charity shop trinkets adorning the shelves.
There’s no WiFi and the mobile phone signal is patchy, so embrace a weekend here as a digital detox and enjoy the books, games and radio instead. There’s even a knitting project to get stuck into.
The hut’s solar power can also be unreliable, but there are torches and candles provided to make the evenings even cosier.
The swimming
Close to its source, the River Cree flows within view of the the hut. For determined swimmers it’s a boggy and uneven walk to the access point, but it’s utterly worth it once you’re in the dark, peaty waters of the river.
Aside from the Cree, swimmers are spoilt for choice for lochs, waterfalls and rivers in Galloway Forest Park, and the coast is just a short drive away.
Loch Trool, with its oak wooded banks, is particularly beautiful and there’s a circular walk you can do around the lake if you fancy a walk before or after a swim. Keep your eyes peeled for red squirrels among the oaks!
You can find waterfalls for dipping in at Cree Woods, and the sheltered waters at Rigg Bay are ideal if you fancy a sea swim.
Sarah (@swim_the_lochs) is on hand as a swim guide if you’d like someone knowledgable to show you the best places to swim in the area.
Eating
A camping gas stove and cooking utensils are provided at the hut if you prefer to have a cosy night in. You can stock up on local produce from one of the many farm shops and delis nearby. There’s complimentary tea, coffee and biscuits on the shelf.
Want to eat out? You’ll find a host of cafes, restaurants and pubs in and around Newton Stewart and Wigtown. We recommend The Hive in Garlieston for post-swim cake!
For £10 per person you can request a luxury breakfast hamper to be delivered by Sarah to the shepherd’s hut every morning, containing orange juice, coffee, cranachan (toasted oats layered with natural yogurt and raspberries, topped with honey) and warm croissants with butter and jam.
Best of the rest
Galloway Forest Park is a walkers’ paradise with so many forest and loch trails to explore. For loftier heights, try the 14km walk to top of the Merrick (843m), the highest mountain in southern Scotland, and part of the wonderfully named Range of the Awful Hand.
Bookworms simply cannot miss a visit to Wigtown, Scotland’s National Book Town, with a variety of secondhand and new book shops packed around the square. The buzzing town hosts several festivals throughout the year, including its famous Wigtown Book Festival at the end of September.
Stargazers will be happy to know that Galloway Forest Park was one the first designated Dark Sky Parks in the world, with night skies so dark you can see over 7,000 stars and planets with the naked eye. It’s not rare to see aurora borealis, too. Sadly, I missed it on my second night – I was fast asleep!
Our favourite thing
After a full day’s walking and swimming, settling down in the shepherd’s hut with a book and a glass of wine by candlelight, fire blazing in the wood burner.
Find out more about Creeside Escape at airbnb.co.uk or on Instagram @creeside_escape. Accommodation host Sarah Redman is a local swim guide – get in touch to book a wild swim with her on Instagram @swim_the_lochs