River Wye source to sea
Ian Rivers, Nicola Goodwin and Julie Hardman became the first people to swim and walk the entire length of the River Wye from the source at Plynlimon through to the Severn estuary
We were freezing, every
part of our bodies
ached and all three of
us smelled horrific: a
mixture of mud, wee, sweat, neoprene
and a whole host of other stenches
that we were too scared to find the
sources of. It was day nine of our
challenge, day six of our swim, and it
was starting to get tough.
We were swimming between Ross
on Wye and Goodrich and, from the
start; we’d known that this would be
one of the toughest days. The River
Wye meanders in huge arcing curves
through the valley with cliffs on one
side and high banks and ploughed
fields on the other making it difficult
to navigate by landmarks or find a
suitable place for our support team to
bring us food and drink. We’d had to
use a rope to climb up an irrigation
pipe through nettles and thistles to get
our first hot drinks that morning and
it was a long way to our second stop.
As we rounded a bend we were
greeted with an explosion of feathers
covering the surface of the water; a mixed flock of swans and Canada
geese were sitting on the shingle
beaches and floating in the shallows.
There were birds everywhere, at least
200 of the majestic creatures moving
effortlessly through the river. Ian was
ahead so he signalled to move towards
the left bank away from the bulk of
the flock, we followed and so did the birds. For the next few miles we experienced something unexpected and unrepeatable as we swam withand alongside the birds through deep, clear water. They displayed only curiosity, not fear, and we all had huge grins on our faces as we made our way downstream. This moment summed up our challenge; it was difficult but every second was worth it thanks to the chance to become part of river life.
“You’re never too old to have
an adventure.” That had been our
inspiration and our motivation
throughout the challenge. All three of
us were experienced swimmers and
coaches but we realised that we knew
almost nothing about the River Wye
that flows through our county. The idea had first been mooted a few years
before and then at the start of 2016 we
found ourselves surrounded by maps
and coffee planning our stages.
The River Wye dominates our home county of Herefordshire as it has done since man first settled in the valley between the Brecon Beacons, Black Mountains and Malvern Hills. If we were to step into a Tardis and visit our ancestors from the Iron Age onwards the only part of the Wye Valley thatt hey would recognise would be the river. As settlements, towns and villages have come and gone the river has remained. We regularly swim in sections of it but parts were completely unknown to us. Now was the time to explore and what better way than by swimming?
The River Wye is officially 134 miles long from Plynlimon to the sea where it meets the Severn at Beachey Head but from the start it was obvious that our challenge would be a lot longer. It would be impossible to swim for the first few days as the river is either just a trickle or underground so, on 12 September 2016, we put our walking boots on and set off in the Land Rover.
We found the source of the river
at Plynlimon easily using satellite
navigation so at 8am on a misty
morning we hit ‘GO’ and started
downhill – and then the fun
started. We battled waist-high
grass, bogs, tumbles, hidden
mine shafts, blisters and rain
for the next three days. For
almost 55 miles we trekked
along the banks of the Wye
looking longingly at the
water below and wondering
when we’d finally be able to get
in and swim.
What kept us going on foot and
in the river throughout the challenge
was the kindness of friends and
strangers. On the first day of walking
we met farmers and their dogs and
saw red kites and buzzards soaring
overhead. Every person we saw on
route smiled, nodded or stopped to
chat and ask us what we were doing.
During three days of walking we saw two ramblers letting themselves hang
free and loose, a man sketching bricks
and a couple taking a harrier hawk for
a walk, experiences we’d never have
had without stepping out.
Finally on day four the water was
deep enough for us to swim and at Glasbury we stepped into the glorious Wye. Our feet were covered in cuts, bruises and blisters and had been on fire for the past three days so
feeling the water cooling them
down was wonderful. After
the summer of very little rain we knew there would be many shallow parts of the river so wewere swimming in barefoot-style shoes, and that was a wise move as
they protected us through the rapids
and were barely noticeable while we
were moving.
That first morning of swimming
was tough as the water was still
really shallow and colder than we’d
expected, around 12 degrees. We were
passing through the border town of
Hay on Wye and some of the most amazing landscape in the UK but the
swimming was difficult as we were
being bashed to bits by the rocks. We’d
taken advice from other swimmers,
such as the Hudson brothers, who’d
attempted similar feats and so we
sculled on our backs through the
rapids and used our tow floats for
extra buoyancy. Swimming through
shallow water saps your energy, it is
best described as being in a washing
machine with rocks, and we adopted a side push with our hands instead of the normal front crawl to attempt to make progress without breaking our fingers.
We rarely spoke while we were
swimming. We’d found by trial
and error that we worked best by
swimming for between 1.5 and two
hours at a time then stopping for a
quick refuel before getting straight
back in and swimming away without
looking back. We were using tow-
floats for safety and had two bottles
with us that we could use to takeon extra drink if we needed it, but for most of the day we would swim in an arrow formation, 10 to 15
metres apart, just checking every few
hundred metres that we were all safe.
We swam for an average of 15
kilometres a day in three stints of 5
kilometres, stopping for hot drinks
and food on the banks. Our
amazing team of family and friends soon
became known as
our water butlers
and without them
we wouldn’t have finished
the challenge.
When you’re
feeling cold and
tired and you
round a corner to
see your loved ones
waving and smiling
it gives you such a boost.
Total strangers such as Dick and
Syd from Chepstow Harriers running
club would arrive in the middle of a
field carrying flasks of tea, blankets
and cake plus words of support and
encouragement. Such kindness is humbling and inspiring.
We were raising funds for St Michael’s Hospice in memory of our relatives and friends who hadbeen cared for there in their final weeks. Our money was going towards the hospice drinks trolley, an amazing facility which allows the patients to have a tipple oft heir choice every evening before bed. Such a simple, fun gesture makes those being cared for feel like themselves even at the toughest of times and knowing we were doing a
tiny bit to help really spurred us on during our low points. Swimming for up to six hours each day gives you lots of time for reflection and thinking and it’s wonderfully cathartic to have to think of nothing else except putting one hand in front of the other.
After seven days and 90 miles
of swimming we reached Bigsweir
Bridge and the end of our swim; we
would walk the final 20 kilometres
to the sea as the tide was so strong
that we couldn’t risk the danger of
being swept away. We had seen the
remains of long-forgotten cottages
and railway bridges; we had seen
birds, fish and mammals plus the
more bizarre sights of lost sunglasses
and walking sticks, carpets and shoes
on the river bed.
Life is sometimes too busy to find
true adventure but, to our surprise, we
had one in our own backyard. River
Wye Source to Sea was a wonderful
experience full of friendship, diverse
people and fantastic scenery. The river
is an ever-changing being, totally
different at the start compared to the
finish, and it had the same impact on
us. It was a tough challenge which
tested us all in different ways but it
was amazing fun and life-affirming. As
we move through winter we miss the
calmness of the river and can’t wait to
jump back in.
Ian, Nicola and Julie's tips for a swimming challenge
1. CHOOSE YOUR TEAM WELL
We are close friends who train and coach together at Hereford
Triathlon Club and we’d spent lots of time together competing and
supporting at events home and abroad. We’ve seen each other at
our best and our worst and knew when we needed support and when
we were best left alone. It’s essential to have people that you trust
and know well when you’re doing such a challenge.
2. LOOK AFTER YOUR SKIN AND FEET AND TAKE TIME TO GET
INTO YOUR WETSUITS
At the end we had sunburned faces, dreadlocked hair (Nicola had to
have hers cut off) and blisters from the walk but not one rub or burn
from our wetsuits. We used a mix of vaseline and lanoline and spent
half an hour each morning making sure we were fully covered and
protected from rubbing. Ian and Nicola had made-to-measure suits
from Snugg and Jules had a special suit made by Patagonia as she’s
allergic to neoprene, not ideal for a swimmer!
3. PLAN, BUT NOT TOO STRICTLY
We knew how and where we were getting in and out each day and
had our support crew at points along the river with food and drink
but we didn’t set ourselves set distances to cover each day as we
didn’t want to create targets which we would have been under
pressure to make. We carried a phone, water and first aid supplies
with us but we wanted to make sure we allowed ourselves time to
enjoy what we were doing.
4. SPEND THE TIME ON STRENGTH AND CONDITIONING
TRAINING
As well as spending a lot of time in the water during the summer we also spent many hours in the gym working on our core strength and stability. Using ropes, cables and free weights we had a good base to prevent injury and give us more strength and power in the water.
5. GAIN PERMISSION IF YOU NEED IT
The River Wye is fully navigational but we made sure that we had
permission to get in and out of the water and for our support crew
to access us at the riverbank. We had great help from the local
farmers, landowners and all but one fisherman! The river is owned
by none of us and all of us and it’s so important that we all share the
water and look after it.
6. EAT WELL
It’s almost impossible to put the calories back in that you use up
during a day of swimming but make sure that you eat enough. We
found that relying on energy drinks, cakes, gels and sweets didn’t
work as we’re not used to so much sugar so we also had peanut
butter and marmite and cheese sandwiches plus soup. Foods with
strong flavours were also great and got rid of the taste of river for
a while!
7. DON’T TOUCH YOUR GOGGLES AFTER YOU’VE PUT ON YOUR
LUBE
We all did this – every day – sometimes twice a day! We carried a
small bottle of shampoo to wash our hands and goggles after the
food stops and to give us the chance to see.
8. HAVE FUN
Spending time swimming and exploring with friends is such a
privilege. Get out there and have a go, even if it’s just for a day.