The Isles of Scilly: a destination for all swimmers
From epic challenges to bay swims for beginners, the Isles of Scilly have routes to delight all kinds of swimmers. By Jonathan Cowie
There are three ways to arrive on the Isles of Scilly. You can join the jet set and travel by helicopter or small plane. As you near the archipelago off the southwestern tip of Cornwall, a tapestry of islands glimmer in the sunshine. White beaches stretch into turquoise seas. The prospect of island life, of a slower pace of living, add to the thrill of your flight.
Thrills of another kind accompany the third way of travelling to the islands. The Scillonian III (also known as the Vomit Comet) is the cheapest way to travel from Penzanace to the main island of St Mary’s. It often lives up to its nickname, as rolling seas take their toll on passengers (locals advise travelling on the lower decks if you are prone to seasickness).
Last time I took the ferry, the three children sat next to me spectacularly lost the contents of their stomachs in a thrilling domino effectas first one, then two, then all three chundered heroically as we looked on, green-faced and aghast. Don’t hang about if you want to experience the Vomit Comet though – the planned Scillonian IV promises shorter crossings and less sick within a few years.
Once on the islands, some of the UK’s (and the world’s) most beautiful beaches await you.
The archipelago of over 140 islands (mostly uninhabited) are a swimmer’s paradise – the shallow, clear turquoise waters could fool you into thinking you were in the Caribbean (until you get in the water – water temperatures are unfortunately not tropical!).
However, the islands do benefit from the warmth of the Gulf Stream, meaning temperatures are mild and palm trees and subtropical plants flourish year-round.
Of the 140 islands only five are populated: St Mary’s, Tresco, St Martin’s, Bryher and St Agnes. Each has its own personality but all have a laid-back charm and slower pace of life that is like stepping back in time.
St Mary’s is the ‘capital’ island of the archipelago and the commercial and transport hub of the Isles of Scilly. The island is only two and a half miles long and three miles wide but has 30 miles of nature trails.
Tresco, the second largest island, is home to stunning white sand beaches and the botanical treasure the Tresco Abbey Garden of amazing plants from around the world. Tresco is a holiday island that twins wild beauty with charming accommodation and a touch of luxury.
St Martin’s, the closest inhabited island to the mainland, is home to a bustling community as well as picture-postcard beaches and an observatory for stargazing.
Tresco’s neighbour, Bryher, is the smallest of the inhabited islands. At spring tides you can walk between the two islands – or swim at high tide!
St Agnes boasts being the southernmost community in the United Kingdom.
With so many islands and beaches, wild swimming options abound – check out the Scilly Sea Swimmers Facebook page for local swim advice. For more organised fun, we have chosen fi ve open water swimming events, holidays and companies to take your Scilly trip to the next level.
Scilly Swim Challenge
An iconic 15km staged swim challenge between the islands comprising six swims and six walks completed over one or two days, the Scilly Swim Challenge showcases some of the very
best swimming the UK has to offer.
The combination of sea swimming with the backdrop of the beautiful islands and changing (often challenging) conditions, provides an incredible experience.
The main focus of the event is on the swim journey. It is billed as being a challenge not a race. The challenge is getting from one island to another, as a group, in varied open water conditions.
The event is split into six swims: St Mary’s to St Agnes (2.9km), St Agnes to Samson (4.8km), Samson to Bryher (1km), Bryher to Tresco (600m), Tresco to St Martin’s (2.3km) and St Martin’s to St Mary’s (2.8km).
This year the one-day challenge will take place on Saturday 9 September and the two-day challenge on Wednesday 6 and Thursday 7 September.
More info: scillyswimchallenge.co.uk
Triscape Open Water Swimming Retreat
Join Olympic open water swimmer and double World Champion Keri-anne Payne (and myself) this October for a luxury break on Tresco to improve your swimming technique and learn more about cold water swimming.
This is no training camp but more of a retreat: accommodation is in luxury garden apartments just a stone’s throw from the ocean and there is plenty of free time built into the schedule to allow for exploring the island.
Every day starts with a sunrise dip in the sea before a relaxed schedule of open water and indoor pool-based one-on-one and group coaching sessions working on the fundamentals of freestyle and open water skills.
The heated indoor pool is great for learning new techniques before taking it out into the open water to practise and perfect.
The pool, jacuzzi and sauna are also a lovely way to warm up and relax after a sea session!
As well as swimming, the retreat includes excursions such as a wild walk around Tresco, exploring the beautiful coves and nature of the island.
The big swim of the trip is the fi nal ‘sea safari’, a longer swim exploring the waters around the island and the chance to put together everything learnt over the week.
2023 will also launch a new adventureswim retreat for more experienced swimmers, exploring the best swimming the archipelago has to offer.
For details of Triscape’s 2023 trips Google ‘Tresco Triscape’ or email contactus@tresco.co.uk.
Adventure Scilly
No one knows more about open water swimming around the islands than Scilly natives Nick and Bryony Lishman. The creators of the Scilly Swim Challenge ten years ago, the couple now specialise in bespoke swim guiding, creating swim adventures for individuals and groups of all abilities.
With a new boat for 2023, the couple offer expert guidance twinned with exemplary safety, allowing you to explore swim spots across the archipelago.
“We specialise in bespoke trips, whether half a day or several days,” says Nick. “We can put together a trip to make the most of the amazing swimming that Scilly has to off er. From big islands to island crossings and circumnavigations or sheltered bay swims, whatever your goals or abilities we can put together the perfect trip for you.”
Find out more: adventurescilly.co.uk
The Wild and Scilly Mermaids Adventure Swims
Join Anna and Ruth, the Wild and Scilly Mermaids, for sea swimming adventures off St Mary’s. Both have a passion for sea swimming and adventure, along with a keen interest in photography, and love to share the beautiful unspoilt coastline of Scilly with swimmers keen to experience the islands from a different perspective.
Ruth is a chef and Anna a paramedic and together they have been exploring the waters around Scilly for five years so know the islands’ swims like the backs of their hands.
The Mermaids offer longer point-to-point coastal adventure swims and swim-hikes using RuckRafts, and – for those new to sea swimming – a 600- 800m swim in one of the bays. All swims include delicious hot drinks and food afterwards. They also offer bespoke swims and swim-hikes.
Find out more: wildandscillymermaids.co.uk
Swimquest Scilly Swimming Adventure
Join SwimQuest for a leisurely week of swimming and exploring the enchanting archipelago alongside the experts at Adventure Scilly. Swim along the coast and from island to island, accompanied and encouraged all the way. With two swims a day, swimmers must be confident swimming at least one kilometre in the sea – but guests are more than welcome to swim both or just complete one swim a day – it is a holiday after all! Swims range from 1km to 3km.
Accommodation is at Mincarlo, a fantastic B&B on St Marys with sea views overlooking Town Beach and St Mary’s harbour. With private steps down to the beach, it’s the perfect place for an early morning dip.
This trip is ideal for anyone looking for a swim vacation with a combination of swimming, wonderful food and time to relax.
2023 dates: July 22-28 and August 23-29.
Find out more: swimquest.uk.com/scilly-holiday/
How to get to the Isles of Scilly
Helicopter: penzancehelicopters.co.uk
Skybus plane and ferry: islesofscilly-travel.co.uk
Where to stay
visitislesofscilly.com/accommodation
Mincarlo guesthouse: mincarloscilly.com
Tresco accommodation: tresco.co.uk/staying
Find out more
This article is from the February issue of Outdoor Swimmer. Click here to subscribe to the magazine.
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Jonathan Cowie
Jonathan Cowie is our former editor. He is a year-round skins swimmer with a particular love of very cold water. He has competed in ice swimming competitions around the world. He is a qualified open water coach with a particular love of introducing new swimmers to the open water.
